Inside the lesser-known Croatian beach city where pints cost £2
Despite its rich history, Zadar in Croatia has quietly avoided the tourist stampede that often overwhelms cities like Dubrovnik and Split, while remaining cheap and beautiful
by Cally Brooks · The MirrorStepping into Zadar feels like stepping back in time. This Croatian coastal city, with history dating all the way back to 8000BC, is a living museum of ancient architecture.
As you wander through its narrow, cobblestone streets, remnants of the city’s Roman past remain. And yet, despite its rich history, Zadar has quietly avoided the tourist stampede that often overwhelms cities like Dubrovnik and Split.
The old town is a maze of history. Its sturdy city walls remain intact, keeping cars out of the old town to preserve the historic streets while allowing visitors to explore freely. As I was exploring the city, our tour guide pointed out some of the ancient architecture that still stands today, including Roman pavements that date back to the 2nd century BC when they first entered the city.
This paved the way for numerous Roman Catholic churches that still stand in Zadar. And while the city has seen plenty of change, some traditions will always remain. I was lucky enough to witness a traditional Zadar wedding first-hand. Brides and grooms parade through the streets with their entourage, bringing locals and tourists together for an impromptu celebration with music and dancing.
But despite all of its drawing points, Zadar has managed to remain one of Croatia’s best-kept secrets. Zadar’s history and affordable prices make it a prime destination for those seeking an authentic Croatian experience while not breaking the bank and avoiding busy crowds.
Tourists in Dubrovnik might be paying upwards of €4.57 (£3.85) for a pint, but in Zadar it’s just €3.25 (£2.73). The laid-back city offers tourists the chance to explore Croatia without the tourist inflation that has hit its more famous and popular neighbours.
But it's not just the cheap meals and drinks that draw people in – with Zadar offering one of the world’s most unique man-made attractions. The Sea Organ stands out as a masterpiece of sound art. Stretching 70 metres along the seafront, the structure is one-of-a-kind.
As the waves crash against marble steps, hidden tubes beneath turn the water into an organ-like melody. While I was there, I heard tourists dub it “the song of the sea”, offering a peaceful tune that’s entirely free to enjoy.
The Greeting to the Sun – a large solar powered installation – is right next to the sea organ, offering a light display in the early evening. Installed in 2005, the Sea Organ now attracts thousands of visitors hoping to listen to the sea’s harmony.
Despite being Croatia’s fifth largest city, Zadar offers an intimate, laid-back vibe that’s ideal for those wanting to combine a city culture break with a seaside retreat. The Dalmatian coast is renowned for its crystal clear waters, with a quick dip in the Adriatic offering the perfect way to cool off after a long day of exploring.
When I visited, I stayed just 20 minutes outside of Zadar at the five-star Falkensteiner Resort Punta Skala. This luxurious resort, perched on a private peninsula, offers the perfect balance of relaxation and adventure that Zadar has to offer.
With untouched private beaches and views of the nearby mountains, it felt like a world away from the hustle of city life. But the Falkensteiner Resort isn’t just a place to rest your head after a long day of exploring, it’s an experience in itself.
The resort is located just 30 minutes from the airport, with private shuttles on offer. The resort consists of the five-star Falkensteiner Hotel and Spa Iadera, which is where I had the pleasure of staying in one of their Deluxe Sea View rooms with a balcony overlooking the Velebit Mountains and sea.
Wellness is at the core of this resort, with an infinity pool offering panoramic views of the ocean and a spa that provides treatments inspired by the local culture. One of the highlights of my stay was indulging in a back and shoulder massage, followed by a relaxing dip in the Thalasso pool that uses saltwater instead of chlorine.
The spa features whirlpools and underwater massage loungers, making it the ideal retreat no matter the weather. With 210 rooms and suites, all designed with floor-to-ceiling windows to showcase the stunning views, the hotel has luxury at its core.
Dining at the resort was equally impressive. Jadran, the hotel’s main restaurant, offered a large selection of Croatian and international dishes. The three-course dinners were constantly changing, keeping the menu exciting which can sometimes lack at a full-board hotel.
The resort features a number of restaurants, including Spice that specialises in sushi and Asian-inspired dishes, and Planika that has a great selection of local wines to choose from and a pistachio tiramisu that was a staple throughout the trip.
But the show-stopper came on my final day at the hotel, when I discovered the Seafood Restaurant Bracera that is tucked away on the private peninsula. The meal consisted of a freshly caught sea bass weighing in at 2.7kg, homemade gnocchi, and a goats cheese Basque cheesecake.
But what topped it was the views across the ocean on a sunny day, with tables perched right on the edge of a private cove. While some might choose to never leave the spa resort, I took the opportunity to explore the surrounding areas.
A bike tour, organised by the fantastic reception team, took me through the quaint town of Nin. Only a 14-minute drive from the resort, Nin is a charming spot to grab a coffee or wander through the local shops. Our guide even led us to the Salt Museum, where I stocked up on their famous “Flower of Salt,” renowned for its health benefits.
The resort also organised a private boat trip to Zadar, allowing us to soak in the surrounding villages and towns while on route to the city. Having visited Croatia before, Zadar offers the best of both worlds. A city with plenty of history to delve into with all the modern comforts and luxuries you would expect when on holiday.
Whether you’re wandering through the ancient Roman streets, dining on the freshest seafood, or relaxing by the sea, this Croatian gem is perfect for those who want to experience the country’s rich culture without the crowds.
With direct flights from London and an array of luxurious stays like the Falkensteiner Resort, Zadar is fast becoming a go-to destination for travellers.
BOOK IT
Completely Croatia offers a seven night stay in a Deluxe Sea View Room at Falkensteiner Hotel Spa Iadera, Punta Skala, from £1,779 pp with flights from London Stansted on 5 October. Includes private transfers, breakfast, full use of spa facilities and sports club, with resort-wide daily activity programme.