Superdry's £440m boss Julian Dunkerton hits back at Cotswolds locals

by · Mail Online

Superdry boss Julian Dunkerton has hit back at critics in his Cotswolds home town in who say he has spoiled it with 'tatty' tents at his fashionable boutique hotel.

The co-founder and chief executive of the multinational clothing chain worth £440million has been under fire in Cheltenham for the marquees in front of his hotel named No 131.

The local authority ruled in 2022 that 16 white tents in the town's main street Promenade had to go because they were spoiling the view of three grade II* listed buildings in Cheltenham's central conservation area.

And this was backed up last year by a planning inspector - but Mr Dunkerton has now responded, revealing his plans to continue outdoor dining at the site.

He has also defended himself against criticism, pointing to his investment in the Gloucestershire town where he grew up.

Superdry boss Julian Dunkerton (pictured) has hit back at critics in his Cotswolds home town in a planning row over marquees in front of his boutique hotel there
The marquees in front of the No 131 hotel were first installed during the pandemic in 2020

The 59-year-old is not only the co-founder and chief executive of Superdry but also the director of the Lucky Onion Group, the company behind No 131. 

The firm's new proposals would involve replacing the marquees - which cover dining tables outside the hotel - with a permanent terrace structure, containing either glass and decorative ironwork or a metal pergola with a retractable roof.

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He has argued that either option would enable him to continue trading, saving more than 100 jobs, while addressing people's complaints about the view of the buildings being blocked.

And yet he has warned that without the development, his business could fold.

In a post on its Instagram account, No 131 described the new plan as 'a bold new proposal for Cheltenham'.

The new design was said to promise 'a permanent terrace that celebrates the town's Regency heritage while reinforcing No 131 as a top UK hospitality venue'.

And in a separate statement, people behind the venue talked up the impact its owner and his wife had on the town.

It said: 'With over £50million invested locally, Julian Dunkerton and his wife, Jade Holland Cooper, have transformed Cheltenham into a bustling hub, employing hundreds and attracting numerous guests and locals each year.'

The local authority ruled in 2022 that 16 white tents in the town's main street Promenade had to go because they were spoiling the view of three grade II* listed buildings
Julian Dunkerton, 59, is not only the co-founder and chief executive of Superdry but also the director of the Lucky Onion Group, the company behind the No 131 hotel
This is how the hotel could look in future, according to new plans submitted by No 131
Pop singer Pixie Lott attended the launch of Superdry's new flagship store in London's Oxford Street in November 2021

This comes after the Superdry boss has not only spent £18 million on No 131 but millions more on other ventures such as expanding Dunkerton's Cider at Dowdeswell Park, just outside the town, and revamping the George Hotel in its centre.

Mr Dunkerton has been told by Cheltenham Borough Council to remove the marquees because of their impact on the listed buildings. 

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Cheltenham Civic Society, which aims to conserve the architectural and historical features of the spa town, previously described the tents as 'tatty'.

The society's chairman Andrew Booton said: 'The tents obscure the view of three of Cheltenham's finest Grade II* listed buildings and we now think they are affecting the town's reputation and overall attraction.'

The highly visible structures were supposed to be temporary, having been allowed in 2020 during the COVID-19 pandemic, but have stayed put ever since.

The local authority has issued an enforcement notice after he left them in place.

New plans were submitted to keep the marquees but to reduce their height by about 2m and have their central peaks replaced with a lower, domed-shaped covering.

But these proposals were also turned down because of the impact on the listed buildings.

The Queens Hotel is directly opposite No 131, in Cheltenham's central conservation area
Julian Dunkerton, seen here with his fashion designer wife Jade Holland Cooper, has defended new proposals to replace the marquees as well as his investment in home town Cheltenham
The couple, who both run their own fashion firms, married in 2018

Mr Dunkerton has appealed against the enforcement notice, with a ruling expected from the Planning Inspectorate early next year.

The Superdry owner has insisted he engaged with both the council and Historic England while drawing up his new plans.

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He said: 'The importance of seeking approval for our proposal should not be underestimated.

'It saves around 100 jobs for local people and enables us to create something unique and distinctive for the town.

'Making the terrace of 131 a permanent feature ensures the venue itself is economically viable and allows us to plan for the future, bringing more investment into Cheltenham.'

Yet online reaction to his latest suggestions has so far been mixed.

One person commenting on No 131's Instagram post said: 'Absolutely on board with this. You're a huge asset to the town.

'Cheltenham needs to move forward and develop. It's being done with great consideration to heritage.'

Julian Dunkerton is pictured with his wife of their wedding day. They married in 2018, at a ceremony in the Cotswolds
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Julian Dunkerton, the founder of clothing chain Superdry, is pictured here outside the Superdry store  at Westfield shopping centre in Shepherds Bush, west London, in 2010

But another expressed anger at the continuing presence of the marquees, though called the potential new look 'much better than the teepees that have partially blocked the elegant Regency buildings behind'.

They added: 'Should have been done a long time ago but well done.'

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Superdry, once one of the Noughties' coolest brands. earlier this year launched a restructuring plan in desperate efforts to boost its future on the UK's high streets.

The retailer which last year had 104 stores is known for hoodie tops and T-shirts, with celebrity fans including ex-England football captain David Beckham, Formula 1 driver Sir Lewis Hamilton, singer Pixie Lott and actors Kate Winslet and Leonardo DiCaprio.

A financial report by Superdry in January showed a 23.5 per cent revenue decline to £219million in the six months leading up to November, with losses widening to £25million - raising concerns about potential administration.

In response, Mr Dunkerton initiated a rescue plan involving rent reductions for underperforming stores, an equity raise of up to £10million, and the company's delisting from the London Stock Exchange in July this year.

Mr Dunkerton was previously married to Charlotte Abbot, with whom he has two children.

They lived in a £3.25million, seven-bedroom, grade II-listed farmhouse in Lower Dowdeswell, a few miles outside Cheltenham, which Mr Dunkerton bought in 2007.

Superdry boss Julian Dunkerton, pictured with Idris Elba, has been caught in a bitter row with the council and a civic society over his boutique hotel's 'tatty' tents
Jade Holland Cooper and Julian Dunkerton are pictured during the celebrations for the wedding of Lady Kitty Spencer and Michael Lewis in Italian capital Rome in 2021
Radio presenter Roman Kemp is seen at a Superdry launch in London in February last year
Superdry's co-founder and chief executive Julian Dunkerton (left) was joined by Brooklyn Beckham at a November 2021 event in central London

In February 2016, he sold just under £50 million of his shares in Superdry to fund his divorce settlement.

That same year he met his current wife Jade Holland-Cooper, 37, whose fashion and lifestyle brand Holland Cooper has high-profile fans including the Princess of Wales and Claudia Winkleman.

They married in 2018, at a ceremony in the Cotswolds during which artists Craig David and Idris Elba treated him and his guests to live performances.

The couple now live in palatial Dowdeswell Court in the Cotswolds as well as owning the No 131 hotel.