Football, tutus and mayonnaise: the highlights of London fashion week spring/summer 2025 – in pictures

Art-inspired collections and garden showcases, plus cameos from Harry Styles and Arsenal’s Declan Rice

Labrum London

Labrum London made history by presenting the first-ever fashion show at the Emirates Stadium, with a cameo by Arsenal’s Declan Rice. Titling his collection ‘Designed by an Immigrant: Journey of Triumphs,’ Foday Dumbuya, founding creative director, celebrated diverse immigrant cultures and highlighted the struggles and triumphs of immigrant artists. The collection blended West African and Indian influences with traditional western tailoring. Rich, earthy tones and vibrant colours dominated the palette. Wraps and draping techniques added a sense of fluidity and movement

Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha chose the grand hall at the Old Bailey to show her SS25 collection. The theme was influenced by dance, with the designer citing Michael Clark and Pina Bausch as her influences. From ballet knits to tutus worn with coats sliced to form tails, clothes appeared as if the models were mid-rehearsal​. Two images by artist​ Genieve Figgis, juxtaposed the carnation motif that was in bloom across the collection​, embellishing suiting, socks and knickers and softening the neckline of a tailored black dress

Paolo Carzana

There was something magical in the air at Paolo Carzana’s east London communal back garden show. As dusk fell the first model descended the stairs from the house barefoot, leading the procession of handmade, plant-dyed, skilfully constructed pieces. The starting point was Narcissus, the story taken to represent the self-obsessed place the world is in. However in this version, Carzana’s Narcissus sees the error of his ways. In an industry that often moves at breakneck speed it was heartening to see a thoughtful reflection done in a considered way

JW Anderson

Jonathan Anderson gave us a lesson in less is more for SS25, reducing his fabrics to only four; cashmere knit, leather, silk and sequins. The result was a concentrated refocus. The silhouette was mini in length, sometimes a simple shift, an extended thigh-grazing jacket dress or a more conceptual circular leather tutu skirt (images on the official Instagram showed these from above - new perspectives are Anderson’s jam). An extract from an essay on art and design by Bloomsbury set member Clive Bell appeared printed on a top and dress

Standing Ground

Michael Stewart founder of Standing Ground was on fire as he debuted his first solo show on the LFW schedule this season. The Irish designer is one of the new names to watch, after graduating from fashion talent incubator Fashion East and being awarded the newest LVMH prize, the Savoir-Faire, for craftsmanship, he receives a one-year mentorship by a team of LVMH experts. Stewart’s technique turnss double-layered jersey into form-fitting dresses that wrap the body

Fashion East

At Fashion East, the talent incubator that supports new talent with mentoring and an on-schedule catwalk show for three seasons each, Olly Shinder showed his final collection which explored the queered logic of uniform and workwear; codes were displaced, subverted and refined. Cameron Williams and Jebi Labembika, the duo behind menswear label Nuba explored identity. Finely draped tailoring evoked an elegance with refined sporty touches. Last up came Loutre by Pia Schiele, who mixed upcycled vintage with new designs in a collection that felt very London

Erdem

The Well of Loneliness by Radclyffe Hall was the starting point for Erdem’s SS25 collection. The book tells the story of a woman living as a man and her relationship with a woman – Hall herself lived openly as a gay woman with her partner Una Troubridge. The collection pays homage to the book’s characters, and also to Radclyffe and Una. Traditional menswear and womenswear were blurred and juxtaposed. Slouchy men’s cardigans and blazers were worn over tea dresses. Tailoring merged with drop-waisted silhouettes of the 1920s

SS Daley

Fresh from picking up the Queen Elizabeth II award for British design, Steven Stokey-Daley showed his debut womenswear collection. Minority stakeholder Harry Styles showed support from the front row. As with his menswear, Daley’s work is all about queering traditions, injecting them with charm and individuality. The British artist Gluck, who was known for wearing tailored and utilitarian clothes, was the reference point for his first full womenswear collection, which also featured Daley’s hallmarks, such as a dog motif knit and high-waisted suiting

Chopova Lowena

Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena-Irons reimagined rodeo and showgirls, both feminine icons of the Wild West, and mixed them with references from Olympic gymnastic costumes. Denim, studs, spurs, and protective leather outerwear clashed with puff sleeves, ruffles and corsetry. The pair called this collection ‘Chukaboo’ (a Victorian word meaning close friend), to symbolise sisterhood, family and a sense of togetherness. The prize for unexpected accessory of the season goes to their Margaret bag - part of a collaboration with Hellman’s and designed to carry a pot of mayonnaise

Feben

Feben’s SS25 collection, titled ‘Reign’, was a clever play on the UK’s summer weather. Feben transformed the negative concept of ‘raining’ into a powerful ‘reigning’ theme, infusing her signature twist style with velvet to present a fresh approach to her staples. The collection’s standout pieces were beaded dresses, a result of Feben’s collaboration with community artisanal beaders in Accra, Ghana, which were adorned with ostrich feather hems

Aaron Esh

For his SS25 collection, Aaron Esh wrote a love letter to east London. He captured the essence of an indie night out in Hackney, but with a touch of glamour. Every detail was intentional. The high-piled velvet cut on the bias accentuated the female form, while silk blouses were frayed and trailing hems were left intentionally unfinished. The collection was masterfully styled by Katy England, with Rockin’s thin scarfs and bead collars peeking out of layered, sheer fabrics. Esh is establishing himself as a promising talent to watch

Burberry

Daniel Lee took Burberry’s signature pieces and reworked them in lighter spring-friendly fabrics, like washed silk poplin and linen. Trench elements were reconstructed as jackets, dresses and tops. Rainwear came cropped, draped and detailed with cutouts, zips and faux feathers made from silk organza. Weathered materials recreate a feeling of protection in the outdoors. Weather references are never far from a Burberry collection, the grey hue seen on dresses and separates was dubbed ‘gale grey’ on the show notes, a fresh lilac shade punctuated the collection

Marques’Almeida

Titled ‘Historically Informed, Culturally Subverted’, Marques’Almeida’s SS25 collection was a fusion of historic grandeur and modernity. Inspired by 17th-century Dutch paintings and Baroque influences, the collection juxtaposed traditional references with unconventional materials and silhouettes. Victorian-inspired jackets were reimagined in denim, baroque dresses paired with aggressive buffalo platform shoes, and bomber jackets came with puff sleeves

Photograph: PR IMAGE

Kent and Curwen

School is back and it’s never looked so chic. At Kent and Curwen, creative director Daniel Kearns subverted our ideas of school uniforms and made them - dare we say it - cool. 3D rosette appliqués decorated oversized blazers and there were chunky logo loafers. The cricket sweaters and rugby shirts that are synonymous with the brand were updated with one rugby shirt completely reworked into an asymmetrical mini-dress. The later part of the collection transitioned into a modish affair, showing the brand’s diversity

Ahluwalia

Ahluwalia’s brand has garnered a cult following, evidenced by the star-studded front row at her show. Her Indian and Nigerian heritage always takes centre stage in her collections, with crochet doily tops, beaded accents and one-shoulder sari-shaped dresses featuring prominently. The collection’s playful tailoring was executed with exceptional skill, with the most noteworthy piece a womenswear coat with crochet inserts and beading in a deep forest green hue

Roksanda

Roksanda often takes inspiration from female artists, and this season it was the work of Hungarian Agnes Denes, a pioneer of environmental art, who famously planted a wheatfield in Lower Manhattan. The work, a symbol of nature versus industrialisation, resonated with the designer who struck a balance between structure and fluidity. Tailoring appeared with circular cut-outs to expose the skin underneath jackets and skirts. Luxuriously constructed colourful dresses came with blurred prints which were taken from aerial photographs of the landscape around her hometown